Ok with the ignition off, the flap should sit slightly open. when you press it shut there should be a spring force pushing back, and when you release it it should return to where it started. If it sticks fully closed then it may just need cleaned. If it feels sticky like there is a lot of friction (as opposed to spring force) then its likely the internal motor magnet is breaking up and it will need a full rebuild to fix that.
The throttle body also does a self check on start-up. So when you apply power (ignition on) it should whine and initially close then open and then sit at a partially open position with the slight whine continuous. If it starts this self test and the slight whining noise stops then it has failed its self test and its broken!!
If its just flapping around in the wind and has no force on it at all then that's weird but its possible the springs have broken, although this is pretty uncommon. I am wondering if when you say "zero spring loading" its perhaps got a lot of friction because of the magnet fault and the spring is unable to return it to its slightly open position?
Thanks @davy83 and will follow this advice. Car has been off the road for some years and infrequently started and moved. Will get more fuel and investigate. Wonder if the fuel pump might be washed in fresh fuel and coaxed back into life.Ok sounds like throttle body possibly not the prime suspect.
no fuel pressure sounds wrong. I am under the impression that the pumps run continuously, and so should develop pressure more or less straight away. Has the car been sitting for a while and/or are you in the habit of letting the fuel level run low? The fuel pump motors are designed to be immersed in petrol, if they are left dry for any time they can seize up. might be worth stripping the boot liner and measure if there is power on the two pumps on the connectors on the fuel tank?
Post #21 = modern fuel has a shelf life; 10 years ago you were talking 2-years, currently I'd say it is getting far worse, I cannot get my strimmer to run on 6-month old fuel! If you have 7-year old fuel it WILL be your problem for sure....
It looks like fuel...
It smells like fuel...
It 'feels'like fuel...
But it wont run!
Still no pressure at the fuel rails from either relief valves. Will get a paper clip . Still need a decent new multimeter.Modern cars will usually prime the fuel systems then shut off the pumps until the engine cranks. I say modern as that might not include 3200.
Get a couple of paper clips that’ll sort your probe size out.
There’s an inertia fuel cut off in the boot somewhere I think. Worth checking it’s not tripped.
Still no pressure at the fuel rails from either relief valves. Will get a paper clip . Still need a decent new multimeter.
Good call on the fuel shut off. How do I tell if it had tripped, or more to the point how to un-trip it. Aware that a press of the cut-off is designed to stop fuel.
Checked all the fuses in the box ahead of expansion tank (alongside the wing) and all are intact. Which fuse feeds the fuel pumps, is it number 5 15A light blue Load protection (injectors)?Have you checked the blue fuse at the back of the fuse box in front of expansion tank that feeds the engine ecu. Caught me out as I thought fuel pump supply issue as well. I also had the solenoid fuel cut off fail as well - that’s located on rear near side arch
Right! Back in five minutesNormally you press it to reset it
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