Alfa 147 issue

CatmanV2 said:

So totally in-accessible. Nice one Alfa

Thanks, Kenny

C

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spkennyuk said:

Alfa in their ultimate wisdom often forget that some countries have the steering wheel on the opposite side. Im sure its a doddle to get at on a left hand drive car.

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sparkplug155 said:

It helps pass the lock down.
I spent 3 hours yesterday changing both rear fog lights/reflectors on my father in law's fiesta. Only 4 screws in total but had to remove the rear bumper to access two.

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1. Apply 12v to the switched solenoid cable. Solenoid fires every time.
2. Press either of the buttons, relay clicks, solenoid fires about 20% of the time.
3. Apply 12v to the relay coil. Relay clicks, solenoid fires about 20% of the time.

1. Relay is stuffed
2. There's something intermittent about the 12v feed into the relay. Which seems a little unlikely. It shows a good 12v when tested.

CatmanV2 said:

I'd ask for a sanity check, but round here? So consensus, please?

Managed to move the blasted fuse panel to get some better access to the relay. Using a Sealey probe:

1. Apply 12v to the switched solenoid cable. Solenoid fires every time.
2. Press either of the buttons, relay clicks, solenoid fires about 20% of the time.
3. Apply 12v to the relay coil. Relay clicks, solenoid fires about 20% of the time.

If I measure the voltage at the solenoid while pressing the remote keyfob (It's easiest) When the solenoid fires I get a 10v + pulse on the cable. When the solenoid fails to fire, I get a pulse of about .3v on the cable,

To me this says two possibilities.

1. Relay is stuffed
2. There's something intermittent about the 12v feed into the relay. Which seems a little unlikely. It shows a good 12v when tested.

New relay is on order, but from a long way away. Anything I've missed?

Cheers

C

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spkennyuk said:

Hi Chris

A few suggestions. If im understanding right. Your measuring the voltage at the solenoid of the boot lock and when it doesnt fire your getting 0.3v.

1. Is the relay the same as another from the alfa or your mas that you can swap out to test ?

2. Pull the relay and use a short length of wire with a spade connector on each end to jump the relay. If it fires the solenoid 100% of the time its not the relay. If you prove its not the relay go to step 3.

3. If the relay has been ruled out i would suspect you have a break in the loom from the tailgate to the body. If its anything like the 156 it will have broken wires inside the black rubber tube at the top of the hatch opening.

If you take the trim panel off the wiring harness will be clipped inside the tailgate. Unclip and give yourself some slack on the cable. Several multi plugs come off it to lights etc. You should then be able to pull the rubber tube out and examine the wires inside and check for breaks.

If its not obvious that there is a break in the wire you can tap into the wires above the black tube and run a feed to the solenoid. If it fires ok you know there is a break and the harness needs to be removed for repair or replaced.

When it happened on the 156 i rebuilt the harness myself.

Rule out 1 and 2 first. If its looking like 3 is the culprit i can send you some pictures on whatsapp of how i did mine.

Picture below of what my harness was like once the felt was removed at the break.

View attachment 69509

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spkennyuk said:

1. Is the relay the same as another from the alfa or your mas that you can swap out to test ?

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spkennyuk said:

2. Pull the relay and use a short length of wire with a spade connector on each end to jump the relay. If it fires the solenoid 100% of the time its not the relay. If you prove its not the relay go to step 3.

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spkennyuk said:

3. If the relay has been ruled out i would suspect you have a break in the loom from the tailgate to the body. If its anything like the 156 it will have broken wires inside the black rubber tube at the top of the hatch opening.

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CatmanV2 said:

Hah! If only I had a Mas . Can't see one. They seem silly rare. A727 I mean there's a million of them, but all used. Which seems a bit daft.



Going to be very hard. But good shout. Can't even see the terminals. It's all by touch.



This was my first thought but I am measuring voltage under the headliner, before the conduit to the trunk lid In fact it was the first point I worked back to, confident that there would be a break. That seems to have been scotched pretty fast. I'll have a serious look at 2.

Cheers

C

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Oneball said:

I’d also consider a break in the wire between the relay and the point under the headliner where you are measuring.

Can you run a length of wire direct from the relay to the solenoid and then test?

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CatmanV2 said:

I'd ask for a sanity check, but round here? So consensus, please?

Managed to move the blasted fuse panel to get some better access to the relay. Using a Sealey probe:

1. Apply 12v to the switched solenoid cable. Solenoid fires every time.
2. Press either of the buttons, relay clicks, solenoid fires about 20% of the time.
3. Apply 12v to the relay coil. Relay clicks, solenoid fires about 20% of the time.

If I measure the voltage at the solenoid while pressing the remote keyfob (It's easiest) When the solenoid fires I get a 10v + pulse on the cable. When the solenoid fails to fire, I get a pulse of about .3v on the cable,

To me this says two possibilities.

1. Relay is stuffed
2. There's something intermittent about the 12v feed into the relay. Which seems a little unlikely. It shows a good 12v when tested.

New relay is on order, but from a long way away. Anything I've missed?

Cheers

C

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Oneball said:

Does the relay click 100% of the time and the solenoid fire 20% of the time.

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spkennyuk said:

Are you still measuring 12v at the headliner before the conduit when the solenoid doesnt fire ?

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spkennyuk said:

2. Pull the relay and use a short length of wire with a spade connector on each end to jump the relay. If it fires the solenoid 100% of the time its not the relay. If you prove its not the relay go to step 3.

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CatmanV2 said:

This


Nope. This is measured at the headliner, before the conduit to the tail gate. When the solenoid fires, 10+V When it doesn't, very low voltage.



Hang on. Surely it proves it is the relay? Just did this. 100% solenoid activation over 100 trips. This must mean (per @Zep comment) the relay is pitted and not passing 12v at all times?
Supply voltage is good. When the relay is totally eliminated the solenoid (pretty much) always fires
C

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