Alfa 147 issue

Oneball · May 2, 2020

Have you tried latching the lock without the boot closed and then pressing the button to confirm that the solenoid isn’t getting jammed

Zep · May 2, 2020

Sounds to me like a high resistance in the wiring or in the solenoid in the boot lock. This causes a voltage drop so it doesn’t have the oomph to pull the lock. When you give it a clean 12v, it pulls every time.

Or the lock is stiff and the torque of the solenoid can’t overcome it. If in doubt, lubricate.

As for the starting, of it ran for 10 seconds that does point to the fuel pump. You might have to pull back out what you removed to see if there are any wires hanging out.

CatmanV2 · May 2, 2020

Oneball said:
Have you tried latching the lock without the boot closed and then pressing the button to confirm that the solenoid isn’t getting jammed

Yes. Many times. it's not getting jammed.

C

CatmanV2 · May 2, 2020

Zep said:
Sounds to me like a high resistance in the wiring or in the solenoid in the boot lock. This causes a voltage drop so it doesn’t have the oomph to pull the lock. When you give it a clean 12v, it pulls every time.

Or the lock is stiff and the torque of the solenoid can’t overcome it. If in doubt, lubricate.

There's always time for lubrication!

I'm tending to the high resistance in the wiring. I need some more testing I guess. And a new battery. Worse case I can wire in a manual one.

The only thing I'd caveat is that it never pulls 'slow' as it were. It's all or nothing. Which makes me suspect a bad connection.

C

Zep · May 2, 2020

CatmanV2 said:
There's always time for lubrication!

I'm tending to the high resistance in the wiring. I need some more testing I guess. And a new battery. Worse case I can wire in a manual one.

The only thing I'd caveat is that it never pulls 'slow' as it were. It's all or nothing. Which makes me suspect a bad connection.

C

Yes. Undamped solenoids don’t tend to go slow, they either pull in or can’t overcome the resistance. If the volts are low they can chatter?

Oneball · May 2, 2020

You’ve done everything already by the sounds of it.

Can you just connect the +ve and -ve from the loom and not the other 3 wires and see if the button works.

CatmanV2 · May 2, 2020

Zep said:
Yes. Undamped solenoids don’t tend to go slow, they either pull in or can’t overcome the resistance. If the volts are low they can chatter?

It never has, at least audibly

C

CatmanV2 · May 2, 2020

Oneball said:
You’ve done everything already by the sounds of it.

Can you just connect the +ve and -ve from the loom and not the other 3 wires and see if the button works.

Done already. It doesn't work any more reliably than with the other three connected.

In honesty I'm more interested in getting it to start now

C

rockits · May 2, 2020

Just catching up on this. Were you checking fuses or playing near fuse box?

I had a weird one a few years back with a small fracture in a fuse that was intermittently working. Checked the fuse with a multimeter and it passed with a nice solid good beep. Never thought anymore and went further down the road of troubleshooting. It was the bloody fuse all along. Changed it and fixed the problem.

So the car was starting and running fine before you started playing with wiring to fix boot lock issue?

Car runs fine for 10 secs then cuts out? Does it seem electrical or mechanical. So more like immobiliser kind of electrics. Or more like fuel issue or more mechanical.

Does it start every time and cut out after 10 secs every time?

spkennyuk · May 2, 2020

CatmanV2 said:
Done already. It doesn't work any more reliably than with the other three connected.

In honesty I'm more interested in getting it to start now

C

Hi Chris

Ignoring the boot lock issue for now. The car started fine before you tried to remove the fuse box. From your description did you seperate the two halfs of the fuse box ? ( top from base)

Do all the other electrics work on the car now ? Or are you missing some circuits like windows, fan ,hazards 12v socket , lights etc.

If there are several things now out it narrows the section of the fuseboard causing the issue.

I am suspecting you may have dislodged one of the plugs feeding the back of the fuse board.

As far as i can tell there are 3 tabs on each side of the fuse box. Once they are released you can access the screws holding the base section of the fuse box in place. Once they are removed you can then gain access to the multi plugs that feed the back of the fusebox.

Ive never done it on a 147 but have a look at the pictures attached and see if it fits with what your seeing on your car.

I believe there are 2 or 3 seperate sections on the fuse board with their own 12v feed. So its possible to loose one half or one section of the fusebox while the rest still works.

CatmanV2 · May 3, 2020

rockits said:
Just catching up on this. Were you checking fuses or playing near fuse box?

Yes, indeed. Removed all the multiplugs and three mounting bolts but the panel wouldn't move so put them all back. Have checked carefully the plugs They all seem fine

rockits said:
So the car was starting and running fine before you started playing with wiring to fix boot lock issue?

Well before I unplugged the fusebox

rockits said:
Does it start every time and cut out after 10 secs every time?

No it ran once for 10 seconds, then died. Won't fire at all now. Just turns over

C

CatmanV2 · May 3, 2020

spkennyuk said:
Ignoring the boot lock issue for now. The car started fine before you tried to remove the fuse box. From your description did you seperate the two halfs of the fuse box ? ( top from base)

No

[QUOTE

spkennyuk said:
Ive never done it on a 147 but have a look at the pictures attached and see if it fits with what your seeing on your car.

="spkennyuk, post: 770770, member: 4989"]
Do all the other electrics work on the car now ? Or are you missing some circuits like windows, fan ,hazards 12v socket , lights etc.
[/QUOTE]

Very good question. I didn't check. I shall

spkennyuk said:
I am suspecting you may have dislodged one of the plugs feeding the back of the fuse board.

This might well be the case.

spkennyuk said:
Ive never done it on a 147 but have a look at the pictures attached and see if it fits with what your seeing on your car.

Hmmm, not looking immediately familiar but I'll have a gander shortly, thanks!

C

CatmanV2 · May 3, 2020

I think my fuse box is very different. It's like this:

https://www.proxyparts.com/car-part...romeo/model/147/part/fuse-box/partid/5809018/

C

Zep · May 3, 2020

CatmanV2 said:
I think my fuse box is very different. It's like this:

https://www.proxyparts.com/car-part...romeo/model/147/part/fuse-box/partid/5809018/

C

I’d start with pulling the plugs again and checking for bent pins. Ask me how I know

Oneball · May 3, 2020

Sounds like fuel pump so pump fuse and relay would be the first items to check.

Which engine is it btw?

CatmanV2 · May 3, 2020

Oneball said:
Sounds like fuel pump so pump fuse and relay would be the first items to check.

Which engine is it btw?

2l TS

Fuse is good, but I'll check the relay

C

CatmanV2 · May 3, 2020

Zep said:
I’d start with pulling the plugs again and checking for bent pins. Ask me how I know

Ah ha! Yes, that would make sense!

C

rockits · May 3, 2020

Does sound like a fuel supply issue. Would make sense it ran once brielfy then not again.

CatmanV2 · May 3, 2020

rockits said:
Does sound like a fuel supply issue. Would make sense it ran once brielfy then not again.

Agreed
C

Oneball · May 3, 2020

Is there a Schrader valve in the end of the fuel rail? You can confirm if you’ve got fuel pressure or not

Alfa 147 issue

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