GS - taking time to go into gear

EnzoMC

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just before I take it to the garage wanted to see if anyone has any info on this

was in the car a week or so ago (time before this was at bruntingthorpe) and noticed on the way home it seemed to be taking a little time to go into gear, switch the car power off today for an hour, switch back on and took it for a spin and if a I take it easy it seemed OKish, but boot it and the rev spin right up when changing gear. put into sport mode and is better response but not a quick as before.

when I got back home went to put the car in the garage, 1st gear and it rev high as it was moving. if I was in a normal car: I would say I'm not lifted the clutch pedel high enough

before bruntingthorpe the clutch was about 34% used
 

EnzoMC

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1st time was about week or so ago and did it most of the time, haven't driven the car since, reason for taking it out today to see if it was just a one off - but nop
 

Maser Sod

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before bruntingthorpe the clutch was about 34% used

That's why I never tracked any of my Masers - I was always afraid something would 'change' afterward!

Does sound like the symptoms of a slipping clutch.

FWIW, I changed out a clutch at a 60% reading because it didn't feel as quick/taut as it should be.
 

CraigWaterman11

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When you floor the gas do you smell clutch burning? Also, did they replace the throw (thrust) bearing, pilot bearing, and flywheel when they last changed it?
 

EnzoMC

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thanks for the responses

no smell from the clutch

clutch and bearing was replaced. dont thinkt the fly wheel was replaced.

to me its like its not operating the clutch correctly. when the clutch is enaged it pulls hard as normal. wondering if its something to do with this
 

CraigWaterman11

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That or maybe need to reset the PIS on the clutch (Point of Initial Slippage) also known as your Kis (or Kiss) point.....just my thoughts.
 
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CraigWaterman11

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Before I forget you'll need a shop with an SD2/3 or Leo system to do that.....pretty sure you knew that already. In any case from what I can see it won't be something you could fix on your own. Again just my two cents..........
 

rossyl

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Does sound like a slipping clutch. Would you also smell burning if the clutch was slipping when flooring it? Or, does a smell of burning clutch indicate something else?
 

conaero

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Worth checking the hydraulic system and pump is running up to speed, low pressure would cause those symptoms and also a dodgy actuator and or clutch sensor.
 

EnzoMC

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check oil levels and all seemed OK, also check for errors and none but suspect the app won't read gearbox ecu

thanks all - sounds like it needs to get a garage and on a ramp - will report back with update
 

CraigWaterman11

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Does sound like a slipping clutch. Would you also smell burning if the clutch was slipping when flooring it? Or, does a smell of burning clutch indicate something else?

Burning clutch is indicative to me that the clutch is attempting to engage like it normally would and the clutch is gone. The strange thing in his situation is unlike a clutch that is completely gone, ie. where you sit and then push the throttle and the rpms increase and you go no where, some of the time you smell almost like a brake (clutch) pad smell (similar smell), but the odor isn't essential. In his situation it's like the clutch isn't engaged at all, ie something is delaying that normal release, of course I am assuming this based off of the fact it's reving up, but no smell or seems like no contact. Once contact is made he can floor it and there's absolutely no slipping at all. I didn't assume it was the Position Sensor because when these fail the sensor sends a signal to the ecu and won't allow the car to start, or sometimes it just doesn't read the gear right at all which most of the time is evident in the indicator window.
I didn't assume it was the F1 pump because with low pressure it will usually throw the car into neutral and not allow you to shift. Additionally I am assuming the OP would have recognize the running time off on the pump motor when he opened the door if the pump was failing, or he would have been popping fuses and it getting stuck in gear.
I asked about the throw out (thrust bearing) to see if this was replace because sometimes people don't replace it, which is a bad idea. That sticking to me sounds like a faulty throw-out bearing or the F1 fluid gumming up the internal slave cylinder of that thrust bearing and not allowing it to retract at it's normal fast pace. Well aside from the obvious and that's the clutch is actually gone. This wouldn't be unheard of with our cars, we just had a post on maseratilife with a guy complaining of the same thing.

The long and short of it is regardless, any and all of these unfortunately indicate that the OP has to bring it into the shop. I know we would all love to help save him money, but this looks like an issue we cannot fight. IF the F1 fluid is gumming up the slave cylinder in the thrust bearing even that is something he cannot bleed on his own. So essentially he's going to have to pay for whatever diagnosis they perform anyway.:battered:
 
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Emtee

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Hi Enzo,

Are your rear brakes clanking when you pull away or whilst braking to a halt?
 

EnzoMC

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craig thanks for the comments, think as you said its to the garage for diag


Miles - the brakes seem ok, i have a slop into the garage and the car holds whilst the clutch is engaging, i do get a crack sound when braking some times but mainly when turning. i think this is a different issue which i read about on another thread. the only other point which has happened twice now is when slowing down to a junction, the clutch seems to start to dis-engage which the car then stalls
 

CraigWaterman11

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Okay, I think I missed what you stated, so when you come up to an intersection (junction) the car tries to down-shift and then stalls? As if the car cannot come out of gear and kills the motor from the low rpm? Did I understand that correctly?
It's so very difficult to diagnose this on-line. That again sounds like a throw-out (thrust) bearing problem to me. Like it's not able to hit the pressure plate hard enough and thus releasing the clutch discs to allow it out of gear. I have just one more question, and someone else stated this above but I assumed you checked for this already, and it would be something you could fix if it in fact is this. Start your car up, leave the car in idle, stand outside the back end of your car and listen to the F1 pump for awhile, and tell me what you hear. How long does the F1 motor engage when it comes on, and does it sound normal? As well are there any leaks under the car when you've looked after take off, and no noises as your shifting?

If it's possibly the F1 pump, this would definitely be a diy type of job but, if not honestly it won't matter anyway. The PIS can be reset and hopefully be relatively cheap if that's it, but the Throw-out bearing which has an internal slave cylinder, CPS, Pressure Plate, and/or clutch disc your entire transmission has to be disassembled for. In which case since the majority of the cost is labor you might as well just do most of it again.

Hope this helps.....
 

Maser Sod

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the only other point which has happened twice now is when slowing down to a junction, the clutch seems to start to dis-engage which the car then stalls

FWIW, in my experience this can happen if you roll lazily up to a junction without using gas or brake. I had it happen once in the first week after purchasing my last GS, thereafter I made sure I was always positive in my driving and it never happened again.

All anecdotal of course, I have no idea of the science (if any) behind it.
 

hodroyd

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14,150
Sounds a bit like hydraulics to me, the gearbox should drop down to 1st on it's own as you are coming to a stop, it would appear something is not allowing the gearbox to do this and that's more than likely hydraulics..??